Brian Scott
About Stereo Images

Some of the pictures on my site are available in 3D! They will have an icon like 3D Icon that will show a page for viewing 3D images.

Because there are several ways to see 3D images, the page has some buttons at the bottom to change how the image is shown:

Mono shows just a single image, if you don't want to see it in 3D.
Para is Parallel image. This is for use with special stereogram glasses, like these. While some people are able to trick their eyes to merge the images without glasses, ("wall-eyed") most can not.
Cross is cross-eye. With practice, many people can use this technique to view the image without glasses. Start with a small window, and use your finger half way between your eyes and the screen to focus your eyes. The tricky part is then transitioning your gaze to the image without losing the cross-eye.
CAna is Color Analygraph. I do not recommend this mode with my photos, because there is not enough red to make it work. It probably works fine with more generic images.
HAna is Half-color Analygraph. Use this if you have Red-Blue glasses.
Dubois is another Analygraph type for Red-Blue glasses.
BYAna is Blue-Yellow Analygraph.. This needs a different type of glasses.
Int and RInt is Interleaved for people with special hardware called "shutter-glasses"
You may have red-blue glasses hanging around somewhere, but I recommend the "Parallel viewing" method with one of these viewers: (In order of increasing cost)
The first 2 use plastic prism lenses, which may take getting used to, can't be adjusted, and have minor color aberation. The second 2 use mirrors, and after adjusting the mirrors for your screen size, are quite natural to view.

And now that you are ready for 3D, check out my 3D images!

Make your own 3D photos!

You too can take 3D photos. With any camera, first take an image, and then move the camera about 3 inches to the right, and take a second image. Then use Stereo Photo Maker from Muttyan to combine and adjust the images into a stereo pair. The only catch is nothing in your picture should move between the 2 images, which rules out most photos of people and animals. I have a small collection of images taken with this method.

For more advanced and easier images, a specialized stereo camera such as the Fujifilm W1 can make it even easier, and can take action shots of moving targets.